Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Finally...Another update!!!

Dober Dan Ya'll,

(That is Slovenian).  We have a few Slovenians staying in the campsite with us.  It is crazy how many languages are spoken here every day.  Sorry for the long delay since the last post...We have been really busy climbing after the bad weather.  Most nights consist of getting in from climbing, making the best desert dinners ever, enjoying the best desert fire ever, and then having the best night of desert sleep ever (thanks to memory foam beds).

"Sign of the Cross" V3

Thats right...we made it from scratch

As for the climbing we have luckily taken several tours to the other mountains, and have made a bunch of additions to our list of projects we were hoping to finish before we leave Hueco (this coming Saturday the 19th).  Last week we took a tour with the camp host Nick, his wife, and their 4 month old baby.  It was insane how well behaved this baby was out in the desert from dawn to dusk.  We worked on "The Egg" in East Spur as well as "Jigsaw Puzzle" V5 which were both very fun.  On North Mountain we went and saw some old problems from our trip last year including "King Cobra" V6 which was a ton of fun and really tolling on the body, as it is mostly compression sloper (big holds with no positive edges for all you non-climbers) moves.  I was able to send it after a ton of tries but unfortunately my tendonitis is much worst now.

Mike on "V Obsession" V5 

Mike on "King Cobra" V6

Me on "King Cobra" V6

I also got on a few classic problems that I am really hoping to send before we leave..."Free Willy" is a super crimpy (tiny holds for all you non-climbers) V10 on North that ends with a big dyno (jump) to the lip.  "Loaded w/ Power" is one of the prettiest lines in Hueco in my opinion, and runs up along this cool water streak.  It uses a few knee bars which is something Mike and I aren't too familiar with.  Mikes knees actually wont fit since they are so long, so he will have to work out some different beta.  It is only in the shade in the afternoons, and it is hard to save your strength throughout the day with all we want to do.  I am hoping to rest during the day tomorrow and go out and work it in the afternoon!  Another awesome problem on North is "Rampage" V7. Having a pool of pads is essential for such a high fall, and after falling off the final hold a few times I was glad to have a big group.  I am psyched to have finished all 3 recommended V7 problems on North (Babyface, Daily Dick Dose & Rampage ).  Mike sent a really odd problem called "V Obsession" V5.  He had fun sending something that at first he thought seemed impossible (or close to it).

Me on "Loaded With Power" V10
Yesterday (Valentins Day for any of you who forgot and are now single) we went on a tour and saw a ton of great problems on East Mountain.  "Hobbit in a Blender" is a super classic V5 and right next to it is "Crimping Christ" which is another crimpy V10.  One problem I was really looking forward to working on is "Something Different" but in the end it was much more difficult than I expected, and really is something different.  Mike was looking forward to sending "Ultramega" V8 but due to time we couldn't make it.  One of the other people of the tour with us brought her 4 year old daughter who is already climbing and reading.  Pretty impressive...  

Today Mike and I got on different tours and it was our first day not climbing with each other...It was AWESOME!!!!!  (kidding).  Mike went to East and I went to East Spur with a big group of people from the campground.  I'll let him tell you all about his later.  I climbed more today than I have any other day and I am looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.  I got on a ton of fun problems including "Purple Flowers" V9, "Better Eat Your Wheaties" V9, "Sex After Death" V8,  and "Long Haul" V8...I am hoping to go back and work on both "Flower Power" which is a short but powerful overhung roof, and "Sex after Death" which is ANOTHER crimpy slightly overhung roof with a fall into a cactus pit!!  I am not sure if I will get a chance to get on these again this trip but I am keeping my fingers crossed.  

Tomorrow I will try to post some more pictures!  

Oh ya...Big shout out to our new sponsor Climb On!!!!  They hooked us up with a big package of swag and stickers.  We are super psyched to have such a great company providing us with some relief to our fingers!  Thanks Mama Amy!!!

Honey "walking" Juno

Juno & Honey



1 comment:

  1. dober dan tom! what up with a recipe from that scratchy soup?