When it rains it pours...

Well this has been an interesting past week.  Mike and I both went home to visit friends and family.  We both enjoyed it but the difference in daily routines from home and bus-life are very noticeable.   I went to Ouray again and had a blast, although sitting in the hot-springs rapidly deteriorates the hard tips I have built up over the trip.

My buddy Matt Moskal came out to hang with us in Joe's for a few days as part of road trip out to the west coast.  I had a lot of fun learning (and being the best) at fishing.  We spent a few afternoons at Joe's Valley reservoir fishing for the rumored 40 inch + tiger musky, only managing to catch their food source of small lake trout.  It was a nice break from climbing every day.

We also drove out to Salt Lake City to pick Mike up from the airport.  On our way we drove through BYU campus in Provo blasting Slim Shady.  We received some strange looks to say the least.  Salt Lake was impressive.  The Mormon temple is a gothic style cathedral with an office building (the largest building in the city) right next door.  It was interesting to see how large the Mormon influence is on such a large city.  Of all the cities in Utah it has the lowest Mormon population, but it is still the first thing we noticed about the city, especially after listening to John Krakauer's "Under the Banner of Heaven" on tape.

I also found out the hard way that leaving your bus parked for over a week might be somewhat hard on the alternator, and after having having the bus jumped a dozen times we finally made it to the local mechanic and were told it would be a $350 repair.  Bummer especially considering it needed to be kept in the shop over night and that is my home.  Luckily we spent the night in a motel in Salt Lake.  That was the beginning of a series of unfortunate events.  Yesterday we went out to New Joe's and worked a bunch of fun problems.  One of them is a V6 highball called "Nerve Damage" which is described best  by the name.  On my first go I fell with one foot off the pad.  Then we went to another wall with some fun V7's and a finger intensive V9.  I was working the 9 and tweeked my finger/arm pulling off of a 2 finger pocket.  I'll have to take at least a few days off to let it recover, and hopefully nothing more.  Last night we made a huge pot of chili (a little of everything we had).  Of course we let Juno be the dishwasher again without really thinking about the implications it may have on her stomach.  I was up 4 times in the night to clean up her vomit...Poor Juno.  She seems to be feeling better today.

Mike and I will stay in Joe's till the 31'st and then head back to Colorado for summer climbing, making a pit stop in Rifle for a few days.  Alex Vidal is coming to visit today and I am psyched to see him but bummed I wont be able to climb much while he is here.  Climbing in Joe's is the best...Cant wait to come back another time.

Oh ya, for those of you that didn't see the video I made of Joe's.  I pay $10 a month to use Vimeo Plus so you should watch it and let me know what you think.  Joe's Movie

Cheers,
Thomas

Joe's Valley Video

I made a video from Joe's Valley with the footage I had left after loosing the majority of it when my computer was destroyed.  Hope you enjoy...
-Thomas  

Joe's Valley Video

Just before taking the plunge

Mike left last Sunday for Salt Lake City where he spent a few days hanging out before flying to Philly.  Juno and I were left to fend for ourselves for a few days before I went home.  Luckily TJ and Siebe showed up to spend some time in Joe's with me.  We had a great few days of climbing, eating and waiting for the rock to dry after days of rain.  Aside from climbing, we spent a lot of time scouring the bus for mice after finding holes in the tortillas and sugar bags.  After 2 days of searching with no luck I resorted to a mouse trap and it only took one night to catch the culprit...Siebe left us for the last time and began his way west, making a quick stop to lead all 10 pitches of "Moonlight Buttress" in Zion.  Good luck buddy!  I am writing this blog post from my brand new MacBook Pro which I bought after I was told the damage from a coffee spill on my old computer would cost $900.  It is bittersweet, but I am excited to work on photos and videos with a faster computer.  I should have an edit from Joe's Valley soon!

Thomas

Joe's Valley Pics!

Here are some of the pictures we have taken in Joe's (as well of Siebe loving on Juno). 
They don't do it justice to how beautiful it is.  We have spent the last few days climbing with our friends from Bishop, David and Christine, and today Siebe arrived.  Juno is having a blast hanging out with David and Christine's female dog, Steve.  Mike is leaving for Philly on Tuesday and is heading into Salt Lake tomorrow with David and Christine.  That means I am alone for a while, and I am glad that Siebe will be here, and hopeful that TJ will actually arrive tonight.  I will be leaving to go to Littleton for a little under a week on the 13th for graduation celebrations!  Call me if you want to hang out.  I am looking forward to driving my race car, having a shower, and of course seeing my friends and family.  Oh ya, I am bringing Juno too.  She needs a bath more than I do.  

The climbing here really is amazing.  Fortunately we picked up a copy of the new Joe's guide.  It lists over 300 more new problems since the last edition, an outdated copy printed almost a decade ago.  We checked out a new area called Dairy Canyon a few days ago where I sent my first V9 called "Stir the Pie!"  Grades are frustrating in many aspects, especially when you break a new personal grade barrier.  It is hard to let yourself believe that you worked hard enough/are strong enough to have truly attained a higher level of climbing.  After giving it a lot of thought, I do think that I worked harder/wanted it more than any V7 or V8 I have done, and it just so happened to match my style of climbing.  But, who cares...It was a fun climb and I am glad I sent it regardless of the grade. 

Some other notable favorites of this trip so far have been "The Angler," "Wills of Fire," & "Kill by Numbers."  "The Angler" climbs diagonally along a rail that tops out above the cold river below.  Classic.  I have a list of over 20 problems I would really like to do in the Left Fork area alone (there is also a right fork and New Joe's). 
There is enough great already established climbs here to fill a life-time of climbing, and endless possibility for new ascents.  I am already bummed about the prospect of leaving Joe's.  Any one want to come visit now?  I am working on another video for Joe's and should be finished with it in a few days after we get some worthy footage.  Hope everyone enjoyed their Cinco de Mayo and don't forget about Mothers Day tomorrow...

Cheers,
Thomas

Joe's Valley, UT

We arrived in Joe's Valley, Utah a few days ago.  This is the portion of the trip that I was most excited about lately after hearing nothing but positive things from all of the climbers we have met along this trip.  Although we have only spent a few days here so far, it is already proving to be as great as I expected which is a good feeling.  We are supposed to pick up a copy of the brand new Joe's guide book later this afternoon and have been using an outdated copy for the last few days.  The first day we spent a few hours climbing on some easy classics which were amazing.  I will post pictures and video soon.  We also went to an area called the "Hulk" where Mike sent "Frosted Flakes," a neat highball problem with a scary top-out.  Yesterday we were surprised with a visit at our campsite by David and Christine, friends we met in Bishop and who currently live in SLC.  We had a great day climbing on some unique rock in a new area of Joe's called Dairy Canyon. 

Joe's is a nice break from the desert climbing we have been doing the majority of this trip.  Parts of it are still snowy and we should have perfect "sending-temps" for the next few weeks.  The only downside is the nearest town of Orangeville doesn't offer quite as exciting rest-day activities  as some of our other stops.  There is a library that is just one room, and a food barn.  The food barn had a sign on the outside that say's racket ball, but we are not sure if that means you can play there, or they sell the gear for it.  At least we have some good books and great scenery to enjoy.  We are waiting (still) for our amigo TJ to get here.  I have been taking some good videos and pictures that I will post soon!  It was a nice surprise to check CNN. com and see that the rumors were true, and we have actually killed Osama.  Who wants to see THOSE pics? 

Hope you are all doing well. 

Cheers!
Thomas