Bad weather in the Buttermilks kept us in the Happy boulders AGAIN today...We are camping for free at a site near the Happy/Sad boulders and have become part of a cultural melting pot of climbers. There is a Swede, Belgian, a few Canadians, and Americans from all over the country (as well as Steve the dog...She is a female). We have learned all sorts of crazy "warm-up" exercises including the Swedish air-humping, and the Belgian dancing. Today we all went to the Happy boulders and were psyched to work on a few highball classics which call for a ton of crashpads. We went back to "The Hulk" V6 which is one of only two problems in Bishop with the highest rating (4 stars). Mike and I had already climbed this but it was fun to go back and do it again. Due to Mikes height, he is able to avoid the "hulk" move which is a crazy lay-back, and just dyno to the lip. Pretty bad-ass. Right next to the Hulk is "Disco Diva" V8 which is really fun and involves some gymnastic climbing and knee-bars.
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Tall man beta (Mike) |
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Short man beta (Thomas) |
I did an awesome highball called "Mr. Witty" which involves a big dyno to the lip from mono pockets...RAD!!!
Our Belgian sidekick Siebe sent "Highbrow"V8...All I have to say about it is that I am still a little shaken with fear from just watching him. It is high, hard and really scary. I would like to go work on it when we have more pads.
Mike and I worked "Acid Wash" V8 stand start/V10 sit start some more today. I think it is do-able after a rest day and working it first thing in the morning instead of at the end of the day.
Cheers
-Thomas
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